Heaven on earth - Gulmarg (The Khyber, Himalayan resort & spa)

‘Jannat’

Jannat (in Hindi) translates to Paradise; heaven on earth. That’s exactly how it felt like visiting Gulmarg, Kashmir. We were extremely fortunate to spend three days & two nights here with different weather settings every day. I say ‘extremely fortunate’ because we travelled in November, although being a winter month, snow is highly unlikely… & we witnessed snow fall on the very first day. Locals told us that it generally snows from December end up to beginning of February.

We always had Gulmarg on our travel list, coming from the south of India where experiencing snow is just impossible, the idea fascinated us. One night while scrolling through Instagram, I received an ad by Agoda about stay in ‘The Khyber, Himalayan Resort & Spa’ at an unbelievable price. We quickly then signed up & checked for travel dates, we knew this was it… if we ever had to travel here it was now. We knew that Khyber was a luxury experience & if we ever got these prices it was now. So we booked! We travelled by flight from Bengaluru to Srinagar via Delhi. On arrival we had to undergo a mandatory RT-PCR COVID test (free), which was well organized that it took us only 5-10mins. We had also requested airport transfers by the hotel, which was on chargeable basis. The drive takes approx. one & half to two hours to reach the resort. The roads were quite good for the most part of our journey. In the later part of our journey they kept getting scenic with every passing moment.

We even witnessed snow fall from here which lasted through our stay up till the next morning. Our chauffer Mr. Eijaz, gave into some fun facts enroute. We learnt that the name ‘Khyber’ originates from a small town in Kashmir. He also stopped at a local shop where we got ski boots, waterproof jackets, gloves etc. on rent at a decent cost. We also stopped at a view point where we played with snow for the very first time (as it was snowing, & had low clouds we didn’t quite get to see the view. However while on our way back we did manage to get clear skies where we spotted picturesque view of the snow covered mountain ranges). On arrival one may also find local cabs for commuting however, it is advisable to take hotel airport transfers for a hassle free & safe experience. Local cabs go up to Tanmarg where you switch from a regular cab to cabs that have a 4x4 wheel support. They may also convince you to hire them as guides for a tour of Gulmarg, tanmarg & Srinagar, which could be avoided.

We arrived at the hotel at 11:30a.m with a warm welcome from hotel staff who escorted us to ‘CHAIKASH’ - a tea lounge with the finest view this hotel has to offer. This lounge & lobby has multiple comfortable seating options. We were then offered ‘kahwah’ – a Kashmiri green tea infused with cinnamon, cardamom & saffron dipped in small pieces of almonds & cashews. Enjoying this warm tea with snow fall view was just what we needed post our long travel to relax. Post this we completed our check in formalities. Although check in time was at 1400hrs, we were provided with an early check in at 1230hrs which was quite accommodative of the hotel staff.

This resort took about seven years to complete and is the only Khyber resort in the world (a standalone resort). This resort’s planning is commendable as it’s also self-sufficient with its own power, water and waste unit. The owner who hails from Srinagar, originally has a successful business of Khyber cements, he also has a chain of hospitals. This resort was built only out of his shear passion. While being escorted to our room we felt the warmth with which this hotel is probably made. Wooden interiors, Kashmiri glass work designs, extravagant chandeliers, clean Kashmiri designed carpets & a light Kashmiri folk music playing in all public parts of the hotel. One must take time to appreciate the intricate display of art work put into this property. The staff gave all necessary information about our room & stay. We stayed in the most basic category of rooms – the premier rooms which came with all basic amenities & an awesome view out of our operative windows. Other rooms that are offered come with extra amenities which included a single, double bedroom suites & one presidential suite. They offer a total of 85 rooms of all categories to suit ones needs.

On freshening up we went for lunch. All the meals were provided by buffet at ‘CLOVES’ restaurant. For a pleasant change this restaurant provided with more of vegetarian meal options & a few non vegetarian. The food was absolutely delicious & the service even more incredible. Our only disappointment was a lack of local food options (Kashmiri cuisine). However, ‘Chef Satya’ & his team continue to do an amazing job at every meal, with more than 25 items at least every meal & no repetition. We would also say that, if your server is ‘Mr. Firdous’ you will sense the five star treatment from the minute you walk into the restaurant. He provided us with the warmest & courteous service we have ever received (& we’ve stayed in a fair share of luxury hotels). The whole of dining experience is topped with stunning view again!

When we speak of view, it’s not just snow. The view covers huge mountains as far as the eye can see, pine trees, light lamps, cars parked etc. all covered with snow everywhere. It’s like a scene straight out of the movies when there is snow fall too.

After a quick noon nap, we dressed up & went to ‘CALABASH’ - a hookah lounge. With multiple choices of flavours of shisha available, we thoroughly enjoyed our hookah experience alongside warm kahwah. Later, we headed for extravagant dinner, post that we took a small stroll around the resort; enjoyed the heavy snowfall & then we called it a night.

Waking up the next morning to that pleasing view was like a dream & one of the most cherished moments. After a luxurious breakfast, we headed out to explore what Gulmarg had to offer. Once you step outside the hotel, there are many guides who offer their expertise service to show you around. Here we met ‘Mr. Manzoor’ (our travel guide). We absolutely recommend him as we enjoyed a lot with his company.

We walked down from our resort to Gondola ride. This ride stops at two phases. Phase one offers most snow activities. The ticket cost comes with both to & fro commute. We took the ride till phase one (elevation approx.10000feet) as phase two (elevation approx.14000feet) is generally closed during heavy snowfall (forecasted). Although there was no actual snowfall on day two, which worked out quite well for us as we tried almost all activities. The ride itself offered the most breath-taking view. Our guide gave into some historical information about the activities here. Once we reached the top we walked a little to reach our first spot – SKI.

For beginners like us, there is a ski instructor available to get you started with an intro to skiing. Although all activities had a Government booth where one can purchase tickets, it may have a long queue & standard rates. We realized having a guide helps here as he bargains the costs for all the activities & it’s a fast track service. You can always tip them if you like the activity. The ski instructors also provide all the ski equipment incl. of decided cost.

Next we tried the snow-mobile. This comes with three view-points (K1, 2 & 3). Each point has a standard rate. We went up to K2. Stop at these view-points & truly immerse yourself in the beauty that is Gulmarg. Huge pristine mountains, pine trees & nothing else but snow all around. What a panoramic white view that was! The ride in itself was quite adventurous. We also asked the driver to let us try our hands on it too!

There’s a decent set up of small tent based restaurants where one may grab a bite to eat or sip onto some steaming Kahwah. There also is a small pay & use washroom service which was kept clean.

An interesting turn of events happened when we decided to take the sledge ride down the mountain back to base instead of the gondola ride on the recommendation of our guide. It turned out to be the best decision. Here we could stop anywhere we’d like, enjoy the place all to ourselves, click pictures… or just lie on the snow like kids.

We also stopped at some shepherd house & had a close look at them (this is where families come with their sheep

in summer months for their grazing). The snow here was more than our waist deep.

On reaching the base there is an option for ATV rides too. We just took a small ATV ride back to the resort. All of these activities took us approximately four hours & we spent about Rs.10000 incl. of all activity charges, guide fee & tips which was quite cool for two persons.

These activities take all the energy out of you & so we immediately rushed for a filling lunch. After a quick noon nap, we took assistance from a resort staff. Mr. Arif, who was such a warm host to show us the entire hotel property, starting from the lobby, we learnt that this resort also hosts a library with a small collection of books, where they proudly display all the awards won. Upstairs is flawlessly designed ‘NOUF’ an area designated for intimate candle light dinner on the roof top. A snooker room, for those interested comes with a huge pool table & operating windows which opens with view of lobby. Downstairs is the presidential suite. Further down is Spa which is outsourced, a gym with latest equipment & heated swimming pools for kids & adults & two separate Jacuzzies for men & women respectively. All these services come with the most amazing views of course! (Unfortunately all these services were closed due COVID currently).

After a delicious dinner and an exhaustive day, we got a good night’s sleep.

The next morning was a surprise. We woke up to sunlight and clear blue skies. We quickly packed up, had a satisfying breakfast, asked for take away snacks, basked in the sun for a while &checked out of this lovely resort. However difficult it was, we had to bid goodbye to this place that people often call - Paradise on earth.

It is advisable to leave earlier than normal for return flight as Srinagar airport has multiple levels of security checks. For a long day that followed for our return from Gulmarg – Srinagar – Delhi – Bangalore we were obviously drained but still all smiles to share our travel experience and memories with the people we love!

See our Vlog this stay here -

https://youtu.be/pCblqC8XNK4

If you enjoy it, please like, share and hit the subscribe button for more travel, food and wildlife experience on our channel.

Follow us on the links below for Instagram and Facebook updates related to our travel. https://www.instagram.com/bo_and_buhttps://www.facebook.com/B0B0.BUBU

Much Love.